We spent hours in a minivan from Chiang Mai to get to the border, and we were quite happy that the long, colorful boats were actually comfortable expecting hard wooden benches and ending up with car seats. The river was quite peaceful and beautiful, perfect for relaxing and enjoying the view. We had only a minor issue with the trip. Two hours into the first day our boat broke down. All 100 passengers had to abandon ship to another boat heading in the same direction. For the remaining six hours 200 people were packed on a boat made for half that, many of us sitting on the floor. All things considered, it was still a lovely trip that day, albeit slightly uncomfortable, reading and watching the scenery. The second day was much better because we had more room to spread out, and the sun made a showing after several days of rain. It was a great experience, not without a little adventure, that I would recommend to anyone.
Eventually, we made it to our final destination of Luang Prabang. Spread out along the shore of the Mekong River, this cute town is a little bigger and more developed than many of the hut-like villages we saw along the way. It is the primary destination for most tourists in Laos, and well setup to accommodate them. Intermixed with elaborately decorated temples are boutique hotels and adorable cafes. It is not uncommon to see a group of young monks walking the streets or packed into the back of a tuk tuk. Wake up early and you can catch the morning market full of interesting food the locals buy for their daily meals. In the evening the main road shuts down for the night market where you can buy trinkets, clothing and tasty street food.
While there isn't much to do in this town, there are a few highlights worth exploring. In the center of town is a mountain with a temple on top called Phousi Mountain. At the top is a fantastic 360 degree view of the town and surrounding area. It is a short, but steep hike up a flight of stairs, but totally worth it.
Luang Prabang also has a variety of beautiful waterfalls. We went to two of the three nearby: Kuangsi and Thad Sae. Both of these waterfalls are made up of a series of vibrant blue pools spilling into one another. Growing out of the pools are tall trees or clusters of bamboo. The limestone of the falls make some easy to climb up to sit under the pouring water. Both were gorgeous, but my favorite was Kuangsi because it was bigger and less commercial. Kuangsi had a Free the Bears project on site working toward conservation of moon bears. However, the other has an elephant riding camp next door. As much as I hate this activity, it made for a decent picture with the elephant walking through the pools. There may have been more people swimming at the bigger waterfall, but with an abundance of natural pools, it never seemed too crowded.
Another attraction I really enjoyed, although less well known, was the Laos UXO museum. A little bit of a walk from city center, this museum is nothing more than a small room packed with information. This organization works toward bringing awareness of unexploded cluster bombs left over from the Vietnam War. They help educate the locals on how to be safe, who to report to if a bomb is found, and help defuse or remove it when one is found. Although Laos was neutral and not officially part of the war, they are reported as being the most bombed country in the world. They are still suffering from this war with many people injured every year from inadvertently setting one off while tilling fields, hiking through the jungle, or kids playing with them unknowingly. This museum was really informative and interesting to see.
Our next stop from here is Hanoi, Vietnam. It takes time to acquire an approval letter to get into the country, so we extended our stay in Luang Prabang to a little more than a week. More than enough time to see everything with time to spare for relaxation. We spent a lot of time exploring the town, walking across a couple of precarious bridges, and seeking out the perfect noodle soup. We've been enjoying the laid back feel of this town, but are excited to be in a new country.
Hotels:
Lao Lu Lodge: $35/night
Lodge in Pakbeng: $28/night
Restaurants:
Tamarind
Utopia
Joma Bakery Café
Random noodle soup restaurants
Street food
Transportation:
Boat to Luang Prabang: 1,700 baht ea + passport photos 320 baht ea + visa fee $36 ea
Tuk Tuk to waterfall: 200,000 kip ea
Tuk Tuk and boat to waterfall: 200,000 kip ea
On foot
Activities:
Night Market
Kuang Si Falls: 20,000 kip
UXO Laos Visitor Center: free, donation 50,000 kip
Mount Phousi: 20,000 kip ea
Tad Sae Waterfall: 20,000 kip ea
Bamboo Bridge: 5,000 kip ea
Morning Market: free
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