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Saturday, November 26, 2016

The Hullabaloo of Kathmandu

The best way to end a long trip is to spend time in the craziest, busiest place you can think of. That way when you get home, you can truly appreciate the peace and quiet. Kathmandu is perfect for this. We spent our last two weeks of our epic journey in the dusty, crowded city enjoying the few sights that Nepal's biggest city has to offer.

Temples are the most popular attractions to see in Kathmandu. A strange mix of Buddhist and Hindu religions, most make for a unique and interesting experience. The first one we visited is one of the oldest religious sites in Nepal called Swayambhunath aka the monkey temple. Not far from Thamel, this temple is appropriately named as hundreds of monkeys scamper across the grounds. They jump from trees, strut across stairs and sculptures, and lounge around picking fleas off each other. Hiking to the top of incredibly steep, slightly crumbling stairs you are greeted with an enormous pair of eyes looking out over the city. People meander clockwise around the enormous stupa occasionally spinning the numerous prayer wheels set about its base. Some are crowded around the walls soaking in the amazing view, some pray amidst gold and incense, and some browse the many booths with locals selling their handicrafts. There are still several piles of rubble blocking much of the walkways, as the temple is still being repaired after the 2015 earthquake. So, it doesn't take long to explore the whole area.


Probably the most popularly visited temple in Nepal is Boudhanath. A UNESCO world heritage site, this stupa is one of the largest in the world. Set in the center of a shopping neighborhood, it towers over the many visitors circling it's base. People of all sorts come to see this place: tourists, monks, and many people dressed in traditional fashion of from different regions in Nepal. Similar to Swayambhunath, prayer wheels are set along the entire base of the stupa. While it is not fully restored after the earthquake, it is impressive nonetheless.


Not far from our hotel in Thamel is a small escape from the craziness of the city. The Garden of Dreams lay abandoned for decades, Kathmandu's own secret garden, until it was renovated in recent years. Gorgeous pavilions and buildings surround a courtyard filled with flowers. A cafe is attached, serving Nepali coffee and snacks, and you can lay out on the grass of the amphitheater to soak up a bit of sunshine. It's hard to believe that outside of the walls lies dusty, crowded streets and the continuously honking horns of traffic.


Kathmandu, like most cities, is a conglomeration of several sprawling and connecting neighborhoods. One such neighborhood was actually a city of its own once, but now the line that separates Patan from Kathmandu is indistinguishable. We spent a day wandering around the area marveling at the ancient architecture and quirky streets. The Patan Durbar Square has several old buildings, each in its own state of repair from the earthquake. A museum housing Buddhist and Hindu sculptures occupies the center of the square and takes some time to explore. Locals hang around talking and lounging on the steps of many of the buildings. Walking the neighborhoods, you see vibrant colored flags hanging across the alleyways, and an occasional temple appears in the middle of nearly every block. Next time we visit Nepal, we decided to stay in Patan instead of Thamel.


While there are many things to do and see in Kathmandu, we didn't have time or energy to see them all. We did get to the most popular ones, and did a fair amount of shopping since we have not been able to get souvenirs until the end. Much of our time was spent recovering from our trek and preparing for our long flight home. After 24 full hours of travel time, we finally made it home, and just in time for Thanksgiving turkey. It feels good to be back, and to see our family and friends again.

Hotels:
Hotel Osho Home: $34/night
Hotel Mums Home: $27/night

Restaurants:
OR2k
Friends Restaurant
Rosemary Kitchen
Frens Kitchen
Places Restaurant
Western Tandoori
Utse Restaurant

Transportation:
Airplane to Kathmandu
Taxi to and from Boudhanath: 1,500 rupees
Taxi to and from Patan: $30
On foot

Activities:
Swayambhunath: 200 rupees ea
Boudhanath: 250 rupees ea
Patan: $10 ea
Kathmandu Durbar Square: 1,000 rupees ea
Garden of Dreams: 250 rupees ea

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